Yilan (宜蘭, formerly spelled Ilan) is a favorite weekend getaway for Taipei people, especially families. It is close enough for day trips but has enough things to do to justify spending multiple days there. Consider stopping in Yilan on your way to Taroko Gorge in Hualien!
But don’t only come to Yilan if you’ve got kids. The county has a surfing beach, excellent hot and cold springs, tasty food (especially green onion cakes!), waterfalls, leisure farms, museums, DIY activities, Kavalan distillery, and one of Taiwan’s best mountain resorts, Taipingshan.
I’ve been to Yilan 20+ times, for hot spring, beach, and hiking day trips with my friends, weekend getaways with my family, field trips with my students, and as a starting point for road trips down the east coast.
In this article, I’ll cover everything you need to know for planning an Yilan trip: how to get there, best hotels and minsus (local guesthouses), top and less famous attractions, best tours, how to plan your itinerary, what to eat, and events.
Yilan Introduction
The name Yilan comes from the Ketagalan Taiwanese aboriginal tribe, who originally inhabited the area. You can learn about them at the free Ketagalan Culture Center in Beitou.
Although it is quite close to Taipei, the Yilan plain (also called Lanyang Plain or 蘭陽平原), where the vast majority of the Yilan population lives, is separated from Taipei by mountains. In the distant past, people would hike to Yilan on what is now the Caoling Historic Trail.
The Yilan plain is filled with rice paddies, green onions, and fruit farms. Yilan-style green onion cakes are enjoyed across Taiwan. The small village of Sanxing (三星) in Yilan is especially famous for its green onion cakes.
For many years, the slow and winding Highway 9 was the main way to reach Yilan. It passed through Pinglin (a tea growing area) and took around two hours. In 2006, travel to Yilan became much faster thanks to Xueshan Tunnel (雪山隧道), one of the longest tunnels in the world, at 13 kilometers. Now you can get to Yilan in only one hour from Taipei.
Yilan has three urban centers. Driving or taking the bus from Taipei, you’ll emerge from the tunnel at Jiaoxi (礁溪, also spelled Jiaohsi or Chiao Hsi). This hot spring village has some of the most kid-friendly hot springs in Taiwan, plus some great waterfall trails.
After Jiaoxi is Yilan City (宜蘭市). This is the capital and largest population center in Yilan, with just under 100,000 people. For travelers, it has some of the best hotels in Yilan but fewer things to do.
The furthest town is Luodong (羅東). Here you’ll find the best night market in Yilan and some great minsus. It is also close to some of the best family activities in Yilan, so it makes a good base.
Most of Yilan is actually mountainous and not easily accessible. Taipingshan National Forest Recreation Area is the top attraction. Visitors flock here for hiking, to ride the cute Bong Bong Train, and on rare occasion, to see snow in winter. Mingchi National Forest Recreation is also popular among locals, but smaller than Taipingshan and less visited by foreign tourists
Getting to Yilan
Driving from Taipei to Yilan through Xueshan Tunnel (Highway 5) can take anywhere from 40 minutes to 2 hours, depending on traffic.
The same thing goes for buses to Yilan. Under normal conditions, they are faster than the train. But if you get stuck in rush hour, they can be slower than the train (and don’t have toilets!) The seats are very comfortable, though, and they are never crowded like the train.
Buses depart regularly from Taipei Bus Station, Taipei City Hall Bus Station, Technology Building MRT Station, and Banqiao (New Taipei City). You can usually just show up and buy a ticket for the next bus. You may have to wait a while at busier times.
Expect (on average) about 1 hour 15 minutes to Jiaoxi and 1.5 hours to Yilan City, and 1 hour 45 min to Luodong. You can book a ticket online here, but you’ll still have to wait in the line when you get there.
Taking the train to Yilan is more reliable, because there is a schedule, but usually a bit slower than the bus. But local trains can get uncomfortable crowded at peak times. On the plus side, they have toilets. Search the train times here.
From Taipei Main Station, traveling time by train will be anywhere from 1 to 2.5 hours, depending on the train type and where you’re going in Yilan.
The fastest trains are the Puyuma Express, Taroko Express, and Tze Chiang Limited Express 3000, but these require seat reservations. They are almost always sold out because they are the most popular way for getting from Taipei to Hualien quickly.
Tze Chiang Limited Express (any of them except for 3000) and Chu Kuang take seat reservations, but you can also just show up and buy a standing ticket or swipe your EasyCard. Local trains are the slowest, and seat reservations are not possible – just buy a ticket at the station or swipe your EasyCard.
For traveling between Yilan and Hualien, take the train, as there’s no bus. Book tickets early (up to 28 days) as Taipei to Hualien is a very popular route.
Taipingshan is one of the more difficult places to get to in Yilan. There’s only one bus per day (bus 1750) in each direction. It departs Yilan Station at 7:40 AM and Luodong Station at 8 AM, arriving at Taipingshan at 10:30.
Going back, the bus departs Taipingshan at 2:30 PM, arriving at Luodong at 5:30 and Yilan Station at 5:50.
Renting a Car/Hiring a Driver
Yilan’s attractions are quite spread out. What’s more, buses there are slow/infrequent and don’t go to some of the attractions. Taxis are also very limited, except in the Yilan city center. Therefore, many visitors, especially families, decide to rent a car or hiring a driver in Yilan.
If you rent a car, you can start at Taoyuan Airport or in Taipei. But people who are not used to driving in Taiwan will often take public transportation to Yilan, then start their car rental there. I recommend that you rent a car here on Klook.
If you’re going to Taroko Gorge, it’s a beautiful drive along the coast from Su’ao in Yilan to Hualien, called the Suhua Highway (蘇花公路). On very rare occasion, this highway can be affected by landslides. See the latest updates here.
By car, you can also drive the slow and winding (but very scenic) Northern Cross-Island Highway (Highway 7) to Taoyuan. Expect to spend a whole day on the road with stops.
Or you can drive Highway 7甲, Highway 8, and Highway 14甲 through Taichung and all the way to Cingjing Farm or Sun Moon Lake in Nantou, with possible stops like Wuling Farm, Lishan, Hehuanshan, and Wuling Pass on the way.
These are very slow, winding, high altitude roads, so make sure to check their current conditions, drive carefully, time it well, and bring carsickness medication if needed.
If you hire a driver, you can visit multiple places in Yilan without worrying about the logistics. Popular stops that people include are Zhang Mei Ama’s Farm, this DIY green onion experience, Lucky Art Crayon Factory, National Center for Traditional Arts, Dancewoods Japanese Garden, KIli Bay Peark Milk Tea Center, and Jiaoxi Hot Springs.
Hiring a driver is very useful for Taipingshan, since there’s only one bus per day. With a driver you can also make stops at Cuifeng Lake and Jiuzhize Hot Spring, which wouldn’t be possible if you took the bus. It’s also best for Mingchi, which has no bus.
You can also rent a scooter outside any of the train stations in Yilan. They’ll want to see a Taiwanese motorcycle license or an IDP. With an IDP, they may also ask to see a motorcycle license from your home country. You can get to Taipingshan by scooter.
Where to Stay in Yilan
Before you choose a hotel in Yilan, you’ll need to decide which city you’re staying in.
Choose Jiaoxi if you want to stay in a hot spring hotel. Jiaoxi is also a suitable place to base yourself for exploring Yilan by car.
Art Spa Hotel (see on Booking / Agoda), Chuan Tang Spa 1 (see on Booking / Agoda), and Chuan Tang Spa 2 (see on Booking / Agoda) are my three most recommended hot spring hotels for families (or anyone really) in Jiaoxi. They all have excellent hot spring facilities, including children’s water play areas kids. You can visit these spas without staying in the hotel.
On the edge of Jiaoxi, Hotel Royal Chiao Hsi (see on Booking / Agoda) is the most famous hot spring hotel in Jiaoxi. It’s not cheap, but it’’s great for families.
North of Jiaoxi, Toucheng Leisure Farm (see on Booking / Agoda) is a popular place for families to spend the night.
Yilan City is the largest but has fewer attractions. Usually when people stay in Yilan city it’s because they want to stay at Silks Place (see on Booking / Agoda), the best (but priciest) hotel in all of Yilan. It has a pool and hot springs. Red Lantern restaurant in the hotel has what some say is the best Peking duck in all of Taiwan.
Luodong is especially known for its family-friendly minsus (local guesthouses). There are hundreds of them, mostly just outside the city.
Try The House of Water (see on Booking / Agoda), Cabin de Kite (see on Booking / Agoda), North Zart (see on Booking / Agoda), 星晏親子民宿 (see on Booking / Agoda), 宜蘭綠之庭民宿 (see on Booking / Agoda), or Yun Tien Feng Chuan (see on Booking).
A little further out of town, Moment Hotel (see on Booking / Agoda) is another great choice with family rooms. It is connected to National Center for Traditional Arts, which has lots of children’s activities.
If you want to be close to Luodong Night Market, I had a good stay at this budget hotel. For a nicer stay, try Cuncyue Hot Spring Resort (see on Booking / Agoda), a hot spring hotel.
If you want to spend the night at Taipingshan, there’s an official accommodation at Taipingshan and another at Cuifeng Lake. You can book them online here, but make sure read all the instructions and book as soon as the rooms become available if you want a chance to get one.
Mingchi Village (see on Booking / Agoda) is especially popular among local tour groups when visitng Mingchi National Forest Recreation Area. We enjoyed our stay in a cabin at Locasu (see on Booking / Agoda), which is on the way to Taipingshan.
Top Things to Do in Yilan
I’ll separate the below into Jiaoxi & Northern Yilan, Yilan City, Luodong & Southern Yilan, and Mountain Areas.
Jiaoxi & Northern Yilan
In Jiaoxi town center, it’s all about hot springs. You can soak your feet or let fish nibble the dead skin off them in Tangweigou Hot Spring Park (湯圍溝溫泉公園). Watch for local draft beers in the park and hot spring ramen, where you can soak your feet while you eat (see the “What to Eat in Yilan” section at the end).
Art Spa Hotel has a colored/scented hot springs and steamrooms, lots of massage jets, kids water play area, and a tall hot water slide (minimum height requirement). You don’t need to be a guest to go for a soak.
Chuan Tang (2 locations here and here) is another great spa, with even more colored/scented pools than Art Spa, massage jets, feet nibbling fish pool, and children’s play area.
Just outside of Jiaoxi, the hike to Wufengqi Waterfall (五峰旗瀑布) is easy enough for kids. Get there by taxi from Jiaoxi town center. The hike to Yuemeikeng Waterfall (月眉坑瀑布) starts at the same spot but is longer and more difficult.
Northeast of Jiaoxi on the coast, Lanyang Museum (蘭陽博物館) is a beautifully designed, meant to mimic the a coastal ridge. It covers local history and culture.
Wai’ao Beach (外澳沙灘) is the best surfing beach in Northern Taiwan, also good for swimming. Get there by taking the local train from Taipei. It’s my favorite beach within day tripping distance of Taipei. You can also do horse riding on the beach.
Dolphin/whale watching boat tours to Turtle Island set sail from Wushi Harbor next to Wai’ao. Turtle Island (龜山島 or Guishan Dao) is a distinctive island 10 km off the coast that is visible from much of the Yilan coast. Read more about it in my guide to the islands of Taiwan.
North of Wai’ao, Toucheng has the popular Toucheng Old Street (頭城老街), while Toucheng Leisure Farm (頭城農場) is a popular place for families to spend a night or just do a half-day farm experience.
Caoling Historical Trail (草嶺古道) is a popular day hike to coastal bluffs. It starts at Fulong Beach in New Taipei City and ends at Dali Station (main hike) or Daxi Station (if you do a longer add-on) in Yilan. The hike is especially popular when the silvergrass blooms in November.
Yilan City
Yilan City is the capital and largest urban center in Yilan. A few sights in town include Jimmy Park (宜蘭幾米公園) at the train station, which has some cute sculptures, Yilan Distillery Chia Chi Lan Wine Museum (甲子蘭酒文物館), and the LEGO-inspired Brick Ark Museum (積木博物館) in the south of the city.
The very popular Kavalan Distillery (金車噶瑪蘭威士忌酒廠) is west of Yilan City in Yuanshan district. This is Taiwan’s most famous and award-winning whiskey distillery. It is owned by the same company that as Mr. Brown Coffee, so those cafés usually have some whiskey-based drinks.
You can just show up and join the next tour (Mandarin only), which includes a small tasting at the end. For an English tour or to blend your own bottle of whiskey, you’ll need to book it online in advance. Some Yilan tours include a stop there (see “Best Yilan tours” section below).
Just down the road from Kavalan, Jim & Dad’s Brewing Company (吉姆老爹啤酒工場) is an excellent Yilan brewery that also runs a taphouse in Taipei. They use local Yilan ingredients in their beers.
If you need to add something for the kids that doesn’t involve booze, try Up Leisure Farm (可達休閒羊場). Artemis Garden (香草菲菲), a beautiful greenhouse, is also nearby.
Luodong & Southern Yilan
The main highlight of Luodong city center is Luodong Night Market (羅東夜市), one of the best night markets in Taiwan. The Luodong Forestry Culture Park (羅東林業文化園區) is also popular.
Some of the best family-friendly activities in Yilan are around Luodong. These include National Center for Traditional Arts (宜蘭傳藝園區), Kili Bay Pearl Milk Tea Museum (奇麗灣珍奶文化館), and Lucky Art Crayon Factory (蜡藝蜡筆城堡).
Zhang Mei Ama’s Farm (張美阿嬤農場) is a super popular leisure farm, while this DIY green onion cake experience is close to it. Dancewoods Japanese Garden (綠舞日式主題園區) is a Japanese themed leisure farm where you can rent kimonos.
One fun outdoors activity in Yilan is cycling on Dongshan Mr. Brown Avenue (宜蘭三奇美徑), which is Yilan’s version of the famous Brown Boulevard in Chishang, Taitung. Another is kayaking in the rice paddies.
Dongshan River Water Park (冬山河親水公園) hosts many events (see final section below) and has a children’s waterpark in summer.
Southwest of Luodong, Meihua Lake (梅花湖 or Plum Blossom Lake) is a small, pretty lake with a walking and cycling path around it.
South of Luodong, Su’ao (蘇澳) is famous for its cold springs, best visited in summer. At the start of the coastal highway to Hualien, Nanfangao (南方澳) is a very large fishing harbor (see the “What to Eat in Yilan” section below).
Even further south, Dong’ao has a cold spring in a more remote and natural setting than Su’ao. Sea kayaking is also popular in the area.
Mountain Areas
Driving west from the Yilan plain on Highway 7, stop in Sanxing (三星) for green onion cakes. A side road leads up to Water Geothermal Square (清水地熱公園), where you can soak your feet or cook hot spring eggs. There are also wild hot springs here.
You can also cook hot spring eggs or take a full soak at Jiuzhize Hot Spring (鳩之澤溫泉), which is on the long and winding drive up to Taipingshan (太平山). There’s also a short but lovely nature trail (鳩之澤自然步道) with a suspension bridge beside the hot spring. See the “Yilan tours” section for tour options to get here.
Taipingshan National Forest Recreation Area (太平山國家森林遊樂區) is one of Taiwan’s most popular. You can see colorful maple trees here in autumn and even snow once in a while in winter. If it does snow, expect it to be super busy.
At the main tourist area, there is a collection of hiking trails, café, temple, and the popular Bong Bong Train (蹦蹦車), a small, old logging train. The 20-minute ride goes to a walking trail. See the train details here. The train is not covered, so dress warm, especially in winter!
Even further up the mountain, and not accessible by bus, is a pretty alpine lake called Cuifeng Lake (翠峰湖), with a walking trail most of the way around it.
There’s a small entrance fee (200 weekends/holidays, 150 weekdays, 100 age 6-12, free under 6) for enter Taipingshan. Parking is 100. If you buy it on Klook, it’s always 150 and free parking is included.
Up Highway 7, the Northern Cross Island Highway, Mingchi National Forest Recreation Area (明池國家森林遊樂區) is another popular spot, especially among locals. It’s closer to Yilan’s cities but less accessible because there’s no bus.
Mingchi is smaller than Taipingshan. Mainly it consists of one lake, but a very pretty one, and an easy walking trail around it.
Best Yilan Tours
There are quite a few good day tours which make Yilan more accessible.
This Yilan day tour from Taipei includes Zhang Mei Ama’s Farm and Lanyang Museum. This one includes Kavalan and some spots on the coast.
For Taipinghan, this day tour from Taipei or Yilan includes the Bong Bong Train, cooking eggs at Jiuzhize, and the option to add Cuifeng Lake.
This one focuses mainly on Taipingshan, with more time for hiking. On this tour, you’ll have time to actually take a bath in the hot springs.
And here is a two-day Taipingshan tour if you want to spend the night on the mountain.
This is a popular dolphin and whale watching boat tour to Turtle Island. The boat tour starts at Wushi Harbor (烏石港) in northern Yilan. It’s very common to see dolphins but not so common to see whales. The tour includes a stop on the island, where you can hike to its tallest point. This tour is most popular in late spring and summer, and may not run at other times of the year.
Here’s a half-day tour to Meihua Lake.
This four day tour of the East Coast includes stops in Yilan, Hualien, and Taitung.
To make your own customized tour in Yilan, I recommend renting a car or hiring a driver.
How to Plan Your Yilan Itinerary
Yilan is most commonly visited as a day trip from Taipei, 2-3 night getaway from Taipei, or on the way to Hualien.
Because Yilan has SO MANY attractions and they are quite spread out, you really need to start by making a shortlist of the places you want to visit. This will help you determine how much time you need there and also which town to stay in.
As a day trip from Taipei, visit Jiaoxi for hot springs and hiking or Wai’ao for the beach. For Zhang Mei Ama, travel to Luodong then take a taxi from there. If you want to visit many spots in Yilan in one day, hire a driver for the day.
It’s not possible to do a day trip to Taipingshan from Taipei by public transportation. The Taipingshan bus leaves before the first train gets there. You’ll have to do a Taipingshan tour or spend the night in Yilan first.
For two days in Yilan, consider to spend one day touring your shortlisted attractions and one day for visiting Taipingshan.
Spend the night in Jiaoxi for the best hot springs, in Yilan City if you have room in your budget for Silks Place, or Luodong if you care most about the night market.
The driving time between Jiaoxi, Yilan, and Luodong is not too far. So no matter which one you choose, you can easily visit the others by taxi, train, or bus.
What to Eat in Yilan
Yilan is most famous for its green onion cakes (蔥油餅). Compared the regular kind in Taiwan, these ones usually deep fried (including the optional egg), so they are greasier. They are made with local green onions are a super delish.
The small village of Sanxing (三星) is expecially famous for its green onion cakes, and you’ll see green onion cake stalls with this name throughout Yilan and even in other parts of Taiwan. This vendor is especially famous, while this one does them like a wrap.
You’ll also see two other unique variations of green onion cake. One is the spiral version (宜蘭蔥餅), which has in inner layer of green onions. Another is green onion pie (蔥餡餅), which is round and is stuffed with even more green onions and sometimes meat. You’ll see them all over Yilan.
In Jiaoxi, I recommend going for hot spring ramen & sushi, where you can soak your feet while you eat. There are two locations of the same shop, here and here.
Locals love getting whole roasted chicken (烤雞) when driving to/from Jiaoxi. Here is a popular spot on the road into town, but there are several other similar ones around it.
In Yilan City, Red Lantern restaurant at Silks Place is said to have the best Peking duck in Taiwan, as well as some unique duck nigiri.
Whiskey lovers shouldn’t miss Kavalan, and the same goes for beer at Jim & Dad’s. You can also find some interesting green algae beer and others, available in draft form in Tangweigou Hot Spring Park in Jiaoxi.
At Jiuzhize, makesure to try making your own hot spring eggs (溫泉蛋). Because of the lower cooking temperature, then turn out deliciously soft inside. They provide little packets of salt and pepper.
In Luodong, it’s all about Luodong Night Market.
Yilan Events
Dongshan Riverside Park east of Luodong is usually the venue for Lantern Festival and Dragon Boat Festival races in Yilan. Also visit this park in summer, when the open up the large children’s water park.
Yilan Green Expo (宜蘭綠色博覽會) is an environment focused event, with flower displays and other activities. It also takes place at Dongshan Riverside Park, usually in May.
Yet another event at the same park is the annual Yilan Hot Air Balloon Carnival in June. It’s a smaller version of the more famous Taitung International Hot Air Balloon Festival in Luye, Taitung.
The Luodong Fringe Festival (羅東藝穗節) usually happens in August, with a focus on local arts and music.
If you want to see autumn foliage at Taipingshan, go there in November. It’s rare to see snow at Taipinghan, so you’ll need to be lucky. It only happens once every few years or so, and when it does, masses of locals try to visit all at once.