Kinmen is a former battleground and frontier territory of Taiwan, with its collection of islands lying just 3.5 kilometers (2.2 mi) from the coast of China at the closest point.
For visitors, Kinmen offers a fascinating mix of military sites, impressive traditional architecture, distinctive local foods, wind lion gods (風獅爺) everywhere, and the chance to taste Kinmen’s famous Kaoliang liquor in the cellar where it is aged.
Visiting Kinmen from the mainland of Taiwan or from Xiamen in Fujian Province of China is surprisingly easy. I’ve done it both ways, and I’ll explain exactly how in the guide below.
Kinmen’s attractions are all free to visit, and there are tons of them. Below, I’ll help you figure out which sights to prioritize, which ones you can skip, and how to make the most of your time there.
Kinmen Islands Introduction
Kinmen (金門 or Jinmen) is a collection of Taiwanese islands just off the coast of China, around 190 kilometers (118 mi) from the main island of Taiwan.
At its closest point, Kinmen is only a few kilometers from China – so close that you can easily see the skyscrapers of Xiamen from its shores.
Much of Kinmen is protected as Kinmen National Park, one of the nine national parks of Taiwan.
The main island, Kinmen Island, is shaped like a dumbbell, with the main town, Jincheng (金城), at its western end. Kinmen Airport and Shuitou Port, where ferries depart for China, are also on the main island.
The Kinmen Bridge connects the main island to Little Kinmen (小金門), also called Lieyu (烈嶼). Several smaller islands belong to Kinmen, too, but none of these are accessible to tourists.
Kinmen’s location put it on the front line of the Chinese Civil War. Communist forces attempted to capture the islands in 1949 but were defeated by Republic of China (ROC) forces at the Battle of Guningtou.
Kinmen subsequently became a heavily fortified buffer between Taiwan and China.
China bombarded the islands heavily in 1958 and intermittently for years afterwards, which is why it still has so many forts, bunkers, tunnels, and other defenses.
Military rule finally ended in 1992, but there is still some military presence on the islands.
Today, Kinmen doesn’t feel like the tense border region you might imagine.
Local residents regularly travel by ferry between Kinmen and Xiamen, and when I visited both, I noticed some interesting cultural similarities – including statues of Koxinga seemingly facing each other across the water – but also many differences.
Many of Kinmen’s former military sites are now tourist attractions.
And the cross-strait story continues: on my ferry from Xiamen, I even sailed beneath a new bridge China is building from the Xiamen side, with a possible future extension to Kinmen – although Taiwan has never agreed to build its side.
Most Taiwanese know Kinmen for a few famous items it produces: Kinmen Kaoliang, yi tiao geng (一條更, Taiwan’s version of Tiger Balm, read more about it in my Taiwan souvenir guide), beef dishes, and gong tang (貢糖) – soft peanut candies.
One of my personal favorite parts of Kinmen is its wind lion gods (風獅爺). I loved spotting these traditional guardian statues believed to protect Kinmen’s villages from strong winds and evil spirits.
Kinmen is also known for its distinctive architecture, especially its beautifully preserved traditional southern Fujian-style villages. Scattered among them are elaborate Western-style mansions built by Kinmen residents who made their fortunes overseas.
Kinmen is the last of the main islands of Taiwan that I finally made it to. I’ve also got guides to Penghu, Green Island, Orchid Island, Turtle Island, Cijin, and Xiaoliuqiu.
When to Visit Kinmen
Fall is the best time of the year to visit Kinmen (aim for mid-October to mid-December), with warm weather, lower crowds, and a lower chance of rain.
Winter is still doable, but it can be surprisingly cold and windy, especially if you plan to explore by scooter.
Spring has the highest chance of rain and fog (especially April to June), which can result in flight cancellations. I visited Kinmen in June – it rained for a good part of my stay and really impacted my enjoyment of the sights. Riding a scooter around in the rain was at times dreadful. That’s why many of my photos in this article look gloomy, but I can assure you that Kinmen looks much prettier when the sun is shining!
Summer is oppressively hot and humid, not to mention the chance of a typhoon cancelling your trip. But if you’re flexible with your dates and can handle the heat, it’s an otherwise fine time to visit.
Read more about the weather and rain by month in Taiwan and then best months to visit.
In Kinmen, some things close one day per week – often Monday, Tuesday, or Wednesday. It’s not enough to totally avoid those days, but something to be aware of in your planning. I’ve linked to the GoogleMaps entry for every attraction – click it to check opening times.
Getting to Kinmen
Your two main options for getting to Kinmen are flying from Taiwan or taking the ferry from Xiamen in China.
There are sometimes limited or temporary ferry options from the mainland of Taiwan, but I don’t consider them reliable for most travelers.
For my travels between Kinmen (Taiwan) and Xiamen (China), I used Holafly’s Asia eSIM with unlimited data (click for 5% off). They also have a Taiwan-only eSIM which I find to be faster if you’re staying in the country.
It was super convenient because I didn’t have to buy a separate SIM or eSIM when I arrived at either side. Before I even got off the ferry, it connected to a local network and starting working.
See my guide to using eSIMS in Taiwan.
By Air
Mandarin Airlines and UNI Air operate frequent flights to Kinmen from Taipei (Songshan Airport in central Taipei City), Taichung, and Kaohsiung.
UNI Air also flies from Tainan, Chiayi, and occasionally from Penghu.
Flights from Taipei take around one hour. My flight cost around TWD 2500 (USD 75) each way and included some fantastic views as we flew over the Penghu islands.
You can book these flights several months in advance.
However, if you plan to fly on a long weekend in Taiwan (including a day or two before and after it) or during Lunar New Year, those flights are only released on a special schedule much closer to departure date.
Here are the special long weekend and Lunar New Year release dates for Mandarin and Uni Air.
By Ferry From China
Regular ferries connect Kinmen with Xiamen in Fujian Province, China. Foreign travelers can use these ferries as long as they meet the visa requirements for Taiwan and for China – many but not all nationalities get visa-free entry to both.
In Xiamen, ferries depart from Wutong Passenger Wharf (五通客运码头, here) and arrive at Shuitou Port (水頭碼頭, here) on Kinmen.
The crossing itself only takes around 30 minutes, although you’ll need an extra 30 minutes or so for immigration and customs on either side.
There are frequent departures throughout the day. When I traveled, I took the ferry from Kinmen to Xiamen and then returned from Xiamen to Kinmen a few days later.
Booking in advance as a foreigner can be a little confusing. I eventually found tickets here on Klook, which has an “Other Nationalities” option for foreign passport holders.
However, tickets for the following month didn’t appear until fairly close to the travel date, so don’t panic if your dates aren’t available far in advance.
You can also buy tickets directly at the ferry terminals. In my experience, this was much easier than I expected.
On my Kinmen-to-Xiamen trip, most passengers seemed to be buying their tickets from ticket machines or counters at Shuitou Port, and my ferry was only around 70% full.
Ferries can of course fill up around weekends and holidays, so I would definitely book ahead for those, and even for regular days if you want peace of mind.
Despite Kinmen’s unusual political situation, taking the ferry between Taiwan and China felt surprisingly routine.
Just remember that this is an international border crossing: you’ll formally exit one side and enter the other, so bring your passport, fill in the arrival card online for the country you’re going to, and make sure you don’t need a visa (or have the right one if you do).
Getting Around Kinmen
The most common and desirable way to explore Kinmen is by rental scooter or car.
There are also Taiwan Tourism-operated shuttle bus tours, but these are slower and will limit how many places you can visit per day.
By Scooter or Car
Just like anywhere in Taiwan, you will need a Taiwanese scooter license or an International Driver’s Permit (IDP) with a stamp in the A box (for riding motorcycles) to rent a scooter in Kinmen.
Learn more about this in my guide to renting and riding a scooter in Taiwan. If you don’t have an IDP with A stamp, you can also rent an electric scooter, which is smaller and slower than a regular scooter, but will still be enough to get around.
Arriving at Kinmen Airport, I rented my scooter from this shop across the street. You can also rent a car there (see my guide to renting a car in Taiwan) – they also have a small kiosk inside the airport for this.
If you arrive at Shuitou Port by ferry from China, you can rent a scooter here or a car here down the street.
There are also taxis waiting at both the airport and ferry terminal. To get a taxi at your guesthouse, ask the guesthouse owner to call one for you.
For my visit, I faced an awkward situation: I arrived at Kinmen Airport and rented a scooter there, but I was departing the island by ferry from Shuitou Port.
To handle this, I returned the scooter to the shop on the evening before I departed (making sure to get there before they closed), took a taxi from the airport back to my guesthouse, then asked the guesthouse to order me a taxi to Shuitou Port the next morning.
By Bus
Taiwan Tourism offers six shuttle bus routes on Kinmen’s main island and one to Little Kinmen.
These are mostly half-day self-guided tours starting and ending in Jincheng. The bus drives you to various stops and waits for you as you explore them.
Click the link above to see the different route schedules (A, B, C, and D are the most popular), how to buy tickets, and recommended itineraries. You have the option to buy a half-day ticket (one route), full-day (two routes), or two days (up to four routes).
The Visitor’s Information Center inside Kinmen Airport has a lot of information about the shuttle buses, including a map of their routes.
Where to Stay on Kinmen
One of the highlights of visiting Kinmen is staying in one of its many gorgeous guesthouses in renovated traditional houses.
There are dozens of such accommodations in several small villages around Kinmen’s main island.
After a lot of research, I settled on Zhu Shan Xian Ting (珠山閒庭, see on Booking / Agoda / Trip.com) in Zhushan village at the southwestern end of the main island.
I chose Zhushan because it’s one of Kinmen’s prettiest and most traditional villages and is located roughly between the airport and Jincheng.
The guesthouse itself has modern amenities in an atmospheric traditional house, is reasonably priced, and has excellent reviews.
I didn’t mind that there are no restaurants or 7-Eleven in Zhushan, since I had a scooter. I really loved exploring this little village at night, when there wasn’t a single soul around.
I was also seriously tempted by Chen Jia Yuan Li (陳佳苑裡, see on Booking / Agoda / Trip.com) in Shuitou village, closer to Jincheng. Some of the better rooms there are pricier but look extremely cool.
If you plan to explore Kinmen by Taiwan Tourism Shuttle, or you want to be closer to all the restaurants, you should stay in Jincheng, the main town on Kinmen.
For a modern guesthouse near Jincheng Station and Jincheng Old Street, try Jincheng Homestay (see on Booking / Agoda / Trip.com).
If you want a traditional home but in Jincheng, I also considered Bi An Gu Cuo Guesthouse (彼岸古厝民宿, see on Booking / Agoda) at the north end of Jincheng.
How to Plan Your Kinmen Itinerary
At the bare minimum, I recommend two nights in Kinmen. With this time frame, you should probably stick to Kinmen Island. You can potentially add Little Kinmen, too. This is what I did, but I arrived on an early flight, hit the ground running, then I had an enormous and quite rushed main day.
On my arrival day, I first explored a few sights around the airport and southwestern Kinmen, checked in to my guesthouse, then went to Jincheng for dinner.
On Day 2, I woke up very early, spent the morning doing a loop around Little Kinmen, then the afternoon doing a rushed, clockwise loop around northwestern and eastern Kinmen.
I finished by doing the Jingwu Winery Cellar Kaoliang Tasting Tour, which I had booked for the final time slot of 4 PM.
On my final morning, I took an early ferry to Xiamen in China.
Three nights is the ideal amount of time to spend in Kinmen. This gives you a more relaxed arrival day with dinner in Jincheng, one full day for southwestern Kinmen and Little Kinmen, and another full day for northwestern and eastern Kinmen.
In the “Things to Do in Kinmen” section below, I’ve organized the sights into the above-mentioned areas, starting around Kinmen airport and Jincheng, then covering southwestern Kinmen, northwestern Kinmen, eastern Kinmen, and finally, Little Kinmen.
I’ve avoided laying out a specific itinerary for you because your visiting route will depend on many factors like your arrival time, where in Kinmen you are staying, whether you need to check in before exploring, and how many days you will stay.
Instead, I suggest you tackle Kinmen by area, so that’s how I separated them below.
Some travelers visit Kinmen as a day trip from Xiamen, though I don’t recommend such a short time frame if you can avoid it.
For this, ideally, you’d want to rent a scooter or car on arrival at the ferry terminal. Make sure to read about the license requirements in my “getting around” section.
Then I’d recommend choosing some (but you may have trouble to squeeze in all) of the following main highlights:
Jincheng main town for food, Deyue Tower in Shuitou, Zhaishan Tunnel, the tank on Ou Cuo Beach, Jingwu Winery Cellar Kaoliang Tasting Tour (advance reservation required), Shanhou Folk Culture Village, and Guningtou Battle Museum.
Things to Do in Kinmen
Before arriving in Kinmen, I had a surprisingly large number of pins on my Kinmen map – far more than what you see above.
This is one place where you really can’t see and do it all in just a few days. Therefore, I’ve purposely omitted several attractions and only stuck to the ones which I think are the most worthwhile.
At the end of each section, I’ve included a box called “If You Have More Time” in case you are looking to explore more comprehensively.
In my above interactive map, these “non-essential stops” appear as orange pins.
Around the Airport
After I landed at the airport at 1 PM, I had a few hours to kill before check in time at my guesthouse.
After renting a scooter and finding a quick lunch (see the “where to eat” section at the end), I visited a few of the following attractions and just left my luggage on the scooter while doing so.
If you aren’t able or willing to do this, you could save these attractions for later when you do a full loop around the eastern end of the island.
Shangyi Wind Lion God
The Shangyi Wind Lion God God (尚義風獅爺) is the largest wind lion god in Kinmen and the first one many visitors see. In fact, I saw it before I even got off the airplane.
The towering wind lion god looks out from a hill in Shangyi Environmental Park, a large park right next to the airport.
While I rode my scooter around to the park’s main entrance on the northern side, you should also be able to access the park on foot more directly from the airport, especially if you have a little time to kill at the airport.
If you want to stick closer to the airport while waiting for a flight, you can also find a few wind lion gods just outside.
Old Rushan Fort
The first military attraction I visited on Kinmen was Old Rushan Fort (乳山故壘).
This is an old military base-turned tourist site, with several ROC planes, helicopters, tanks, trenches, and bunkers on display.
I didn’t, but you can also walk deeper inside through the Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Forest (中山紀念林) to Chiang Ching-Kuo Memorial Hall (蔣經國先生紀念館), dedicated to the son of Chiang Kai-shek and 3rd president of Taiwan.
Kinmen Kaoliang Factory
The Kinmen Kaoliang Factory (金門酒廠) is the headquarters and main factory producing Kaoliang, the most popular distilled spirit in Taiwan.
The clear firewater is typically 58% alcohol, and definitely an acquired taste. The word kaoliang (高粱) refers to both sorghum and the liquor made from it.
You can’t miss the factory, with its towering bottles of Kaoliang out front. Inside the front door of the main building, there’s a room with some cool bottles on display.
In a building to the back-left (here), there’s a gift shop where you can buy interesting-shaped bottles and taste ice cream with espresso and Kaoliang.
I’m not aware of any official factory tours, but I highly recommend the tasting tour in the tunnels where they store and age the Kaoliang – this is in a different location, which I will cover at the end of the Eastern Kinmen section below.
Xiguoshan Wind Lion God
Of the many wind lion gods I saw in Kinmen, Xiguoshan Wind Lion God (昔果山風獅爺) was my personal favorite.
Part of it was that it was my very first close-up with an authentic wind lion god. But I also loved his bright blue color and discreet location in the countryside next between a small temple and the airport runway.
Jincheng (The Main Town)
Jincheng (金城) is the main town on Kinmen Island. Most of the island’s restaurants are found here.
Even though I didn’t stay in Jincheng, I went there multiple times during my trip for dining and to visiting the old street.
Jincheng Old Street
The most interesting area in Jincheng is Jincheng Old Street (金城老街).
The winding street features several old shops where you can buy yi tiao geng, a soothing liquid, cream, or balm made from a root that grows in Kinmen.
There’s an impressive arch over the street here.
The especially pretty, red-brick Mofan Street (模範街) branches off from the old street and reminded me of Sanxia Old Street in New Taipei City.
At the northern end of the street, don’t miss this pharmacy dating to 1832, the Kinmen craft beer bar, and the beautiful square around Hou Pu Wu Temple (後浦武廟).
Finally, the Troops Headquarters (清金門鎮總兵署) is especially cool at night, when the red lanterns are lit up.
For my recommended restaurants, things to eat, and the craft beer bar on Jincheng Old Street, see my “Where to Eat in Kinmen” section at the end of the article.
Juguang Tower
At the southern end of Jincheng, Juguang Tower (莒光樓) is one of the tallest and most recognizable landmarks in Kinmen.
This is a 1952, propaganda-era monument turned museum showcasing Kinmen history. From the third floor, I enjoyed an excellent view of the town, port, Little Kinmen, and China beyond.
Some cute statues and selfie-spots outside add a little color to this otherwise imposing attraction.
Maestro Wu’s Knife Shop
While I never made it, visitors rave about Maestro Wu’s Knife Shop (金合利鋼刀觀光工廠) on the eastern edge of Jincheng. Here you can purchase high quality knives, some of which are made from discarded bombshells, or even make your own knife.
Jiangongyu Islet
Jiangongyu Islet (建功嶼) is a tiny island just off the coast of Jincheng.
The island has a statue of Koxinga (鄭成功), the 17th-century Ming loyalist and military leader who used Kinmen as a base before sailing to Taiwan and expelling the Dutch in 1662.
Koxinga looks out towards Xiamen, where there is another statue of him looking back. I visited the much larger Xiamen version two days after this one.
There, I found that, despite locals saying the two statues face each other (which makes for a nice story), the Xiamen one isn’t actually looking directly towards Kinmen.
A stone causeway leads out to the Jiangongyu Islet, with some cute that appear to float at high tide. But there’s a catch: the walkway only appears for one hour per day, around low tide.
Kinmen Tourism publishes the times you can walk across every day of the year.
Southwest Kinmen
Southwestern Kinmen has a high concentration of worthwhile sights. For most visitors, once you check in to your guesthouse, I recommend starting in this area.
The exact route you take will depend on where you’re starting. I’ve arranged the below in order from Jincheng.
Shuitou Village and Deyue Tower
Shuitou (水頭) is a small village southwest of Jincheng known for its impressive mansions displaying Fujian and Western characteristics.
The most famous one is Huang Hui-huang Western-style House (黃輝煌洋樓), which features the Deyue Tower (得月樓), one of the most recognizable landmarks in Kinmen.
The 11-meter gun tower is next to the pink and white mansion, with a third, “false building” on site. All three were once connected by underground passages. I especially liked the wind lion gods protecting the entrance gate.
When driving into the village, watch for the tall Kaoliang bottle at the entrance, which stands atop a real military bunker.
Zhaishan Tunnel
Zhaishan Tunnel (翟山坑道) at the southwestern end of the island is a 100-meter, water-filled tunnel blasted out from the granite in 1966.
The cool interior served as a military barracks and hideout for the ROC army and their boats.
You’ll need to wear a bright yellow hardhat to enter the tunnels. The classical music playing inside is a nice touch.
There’s also a similar tunnel system on Little Kinmen, but this is the better-known of the two. Budget around 45 minutes to visit it.
Tank in the Sand at Ou Cuo Beach
One of the longest sandy stretches on Kinmen, Ou Cuo Beach (歐厝沙灘) is a must-visit for its iconic tank half buried in the sand here. This is one of the things I was most excited to see in Kinmen.
The M18 Hellcat tank destroyer was dragged onto the beach in the 1990s for live-fire tank training then simply left there. Today, it is a vivid reminder and icon of the island’s military history.
The local tourism board requests that you shouldn’t sit or climb on the tank.
No matter how you approach it, you’ll need to walk in the sand for about 20 minutes (return) to get to it. The closest I could get by scooter (a car would also fit, barely) was here.
The main Ou Cuo Beach parking lot also works but is a little further from the tank.
Besides the tank, the beach itself is impressive and typically devoid of people.
Zhushan Village
The village I chose to stay in, Zhushan (珠山) is one of the prettiest villages in Kinmen.
The cluster of traditional houses is built around a small reflecting pond.
Next to Xue Shi Da Zong Ancestral Shrine, a set of stairs leads up to Zhushan Wayside Park Pavilion, a lookout over the village rooftops. I had a very peaceful time climbing up here one evening during my stay.
There are several guesthouses in traditional homes here, but heads up that there are no shops or restaurants. The closest 7-Eleven is a five-minute drive away in Kinmen Old City (Jinmen Cheng).
Houhu Beach
Houhu Beach (后湖海濱公園) is a northern continuation of Ou Cuo Beach, just before it reaches the airport, but the distance is far, so I drove between the two beaches.
This is Kinmen’s clam digging spot for locals in summertime. I saw over a dozen people digging buckets of the little clams out of the sand.
No one was swimming when I visited, but if you want to, there are toilets, changing rooms, and a few cute, modern wind lion god statues.
If You Have More Time
I personally didn’t find Kinmen Old City (金門城 or Jinmen Cheng) very interesting, but you’ll likely drive through its west and east gates on the way to Zhaishan Tunnel.
Gugang Tower (古崗樓) on Gugang Lake, also on the way to Zhaishan Tunnel, is only worth a quick stop if you have time.
Finally, Sihu Village may be worth a quick detour from Houhu Beach for its Wind Lion God Painted Wall (泗湖風獅爺彩繪牆) and yellow Sihu Wind Lion God (泗湖風獅爺), but you might need a few minutes to find them, even with GoogleMaps.
Northwest Kinmen
The northwestern corner of Kinmen has a smaller number of attractions, but it does include one of the island’s best museums.
Again I’ve arranged these in order from Jincheng. If your time in Kinmen is short, you may consider visiting Little Kinmen first in the morning, then proceed with the below sights (and onward to eastern Kinmen) in the afternoon. This is exactly what I did.
If you have more time, you may cover northwest Kinmen in the morning, then proceed to eastern Kinmen in the afternoon, and save Little Kinmen for another day.
Huxia Seawall & Kinmen Bridge Views
Just north of Jincheng, Jinning village (金寧) is where Kinmen Bridge crosses over to Little Kinmen (I’ll introduce the bridge itself in the Little Kinmen section below).
Just north of the bridge, Huxia Seawall (湖下海堤) offers some of the best views of the bridge, landing spikes on the beach, and it also makes for an excellent sunset spot when the weather cooperates.
If you’re bagging wind lion gods, there’s one here in town, plus a house covered in artwork here.
Ci Lake, Nanshan and Beishan
Continuing north, the road passes Ci Lake (慈湖) to reach the twin villages of Nanshan (南山) and Beishan (北山), with a pond between them.
If you’re on a scooter, consider taking a quick drive through either or both of these traditional villages.
Beishan is best-known for the Beishan Old Western Style House (北山古洋樓), which was badly damaged in the 1949 Battle of Guningtou – look for the gunshot marks. At the related museum (see next entry), you can even see a large painting showing this building during the battle.
Today, you actually sleep in this historic structure – called the Beishan Old Western Style Hostel (see on Booking / Agoda / Trip.com).
Guningtou Battle Museum
The Guningtou Battle Museum (古寧頭戰史館) commemorates the 1949 Battle of Guningtou, when the ROC defeated the Chinese Communist Party forces and preserved Kinmen under ROC control.
The museum features real artifacts from the battle and 12 large-scale paintings chronicling the battle – when you enter the museum, make sure to visit it in a counter-clockwise direction.
If you only visit one museum in Kinmen, make it this one.
If You Have More Time
The Beishan Broadcasting Wall (北山播音牆) is a Cold War relic whose powerful speakers once blasted propaganda, news, and music across the water toward China. It’s an interesting piece of Kinmen’s military history, but the wall itself only warrants a quick stop.
Near it, you can see landing spikes along the coast from the Beishan Seawall (北山海堤).
Eastern Kinmen
The eastern portion of Kinmen Island is larger but has comparatively fewer, more spread-out sights.
Shanhou Folk Culture Village is one of Kinmen’s top attractions, while the Jingwu Winery Cellar Kaoliang Tasting Tour was one of my personal favorite experiences in Kinmen.
If starting from Jincheng, it makes sense to cover these as a continuation of northwestern Kinmen (the previous section).
Qionglin Village
Qionglin (瓊林) is a small and beautifully preserved village of traditional houses, similar to Zhushan in western Kinmen.
The village is right in the middle of the dumbbell (the skinniest part of the island), but it’s a quick and easy stop when you’re embarking on the eastern island loop.
There are three quirky spots worth trying to find here: the wind lion god embedded in the wall at the back of the Qionglin Cai Family Temple (瓊林蔡氏祠堂), the Smallest Wind Lion God in Kinmen (金門最小風獅爺), and the Qionglin Red Brick Wall (瓊林窯燒紅磚牆).
Jinsha and Shamei Old Street
Next up, Jinsha (金沙) village is worth a quick stop for Shamei Old Street (沙美老街).
Unlike many of Taiwan’s touristy and heavily restored “old streets,” Shamei really does feel old – much of the former bustling commercial district is quiet, abandoned, or partly ruined.
Some of the ruined buildings have been partially restored and smoothed over, leading local Instagrammers to dub it “Shamei Morocco” (沙美摩洛哥).
When I visited, not only was it raining but also one of the main alleys here was closed for renovations, so it was dead quiet.
ROC history nerds may also want to get a look at the ROC imagery on Jinsha Theater (金沙戲院).
Mashan Observation Post
Mashan Observation Post (馬山觀測所) is an fort occupying the northernmost point of Kinmen Island. Unfortunately I skipped this one because it was raining heavily at that point in my day (I was hiding in a FamilyMart), but I recommend you try, because it’s one of the most interesting.
The fort has underground tunnels and a broadcasting room where Teresa Teng cassettes were played towards China. You can still hear her music playing in there today.
There are also telescopes available which you can use to spy on the Chinese coast.
Shanhou Folk Culture Village
Shanhou Folk Culture Village (山后民俗文化村) is considered the best-restored old village in Kinmen.
Here, 18 Fujian-style houses belonging to the Wang family and dating to 1900 are beautifully restored, with intricate architectural details and narrow alleyways between them.
However, unlike other old villages, like Zhushan and Qionglin, this one felt to me more like an open-air museum than a living village.
Find your way to the back and walk up the small hill to get an impressive view looking down on the village rooftops.
Just outside the western entrance of the village, there’s a cat that’s so friendly, he even has an entry on GoogleMaps.
Jingwu Winery Cellar Kaoliang Tasting Tour
Jingwu Winery (經武酒窖) is a cave cellar where huge stainless steel tanks of Kinmen Kaoliang are stored and aged.
This is not at the main Kinmen Kaoliang Factory, but rather in a remote location east of it near Jinhu village.
This is the only attraction I had to pay for on Kinmen, and the only one I had to book in advance.
I booked it by calling 08-232-5628, extension 87999, a few days before I headed to Kinmen – if you can’t speak Mandarin, I suggest asking a local to make the call for you.
Five tours with Kaoliang tasting are offered per day (TWD 350, 10:00, 11:00, 2:00, 3:00, 4:00, 40 minutes).
For my plans, since this was at the end of my Eastern Kinmen Island loop, I booked the 4 PM tour, and this was my last stop before returning to my hotel and going for dinner.
On the tour, which is conducted in Mandarin, we received a goodie bag including several freebies and a glass to be hung around our neck for tastings.
Also read about whisky tasting at Kavalan Distillery in Yilan.
I got to try several types of Kaoliang straight from the tank, including a six-year-old, 62% ABV one which was the best Kaoliang I’ve ever tried.
Even if you don’t like Kaoliang (few people do the first time they try it), you may enjoy the cocktail they make with it at the end of the tour – we got a melon and basil flavored one.
Be careful if you need to drive.
If You Have More Time
There are dozens of smaller possible stops in eastern Kinmen. I have to admit that I rushed through this part of the island because it was pouring rain for most of my visit.
Other places I’d pinned on my map but never made it to include a large and realistic crab statue and coastal walk at Fu Guo Dun Guan Hai Tai (復國墩觀海台), the 823 Artillery Battle Museum (八二三戰史館), Tai Lake (太湖), and Chen Jinglan Western-style Mansion (陳景蘭洋樓).
There are also over a dozen wind lion gods in eastern Kinmen. You can find them by searching “wind lion god” or 風獅爺 on GoogleMaps.
Little Kinmen
Little Kinmen (小金門), also called Lieyu (烈嶼), is the second largest island in Kinmen. It features some of Kinmen’s best forts and is the closest you can get to China without going through immigration.
The island is easier to visit ever since Kinmen Bridge opened.
If you have more time in Kinmen and are especially interested in military attractions, you could potentially spend the better part of a day on Little Kinmen.
If you like to wake early and move quickly like I do, you can cover Little Kinmen in the morning, then move on to northwestern and/or eastern Kinmen in the afternoon.
Kinmen Bridge
Opened in 2022, the 5.4-kilometer (3.4 mi) Kinmen Bridge is the longest cross-sea bridge in Taiwan and connects the main island of Kinmen to Little Kinmen.
The bridge goes from Jinning village just north of Jincheng to the northeast coast of Little Kinmen, near Yongshi & Tiehan Fort, one of the top attractions there.
The bridge itself is quite photogenic but beware that crossing it can be a wild ride. When I rode a scooter across it, the wind was so fierce that it literally ripped my plastic rain poncho to shreds.
Yongshi and Tiehan Forts
Yongshi Fort (勇士堡 or “Warrior’s Fort”) and Tiehan Fortress (鐵漢堡 or “Iron Man Fort”) are two adjacent forts and a top reason to come to Little Kinmen.
A 350-meter series of underground tunnels connects the two forts and contains the Landmine Museum (地雷主題館), which is rather terrifying, with sounds of explosions going off as you walk through.
While the tunnels aren’t particularly narrow, if you’re claustrophobic, you may not love them. I did also see a large spider or two.
There are also bunkers and several lookouts, though I found most of them had limited or no views due to overgrown vegetation.
For my visit, I parked at Yongshi Fort, walked through the tunnels to Tiehan Fortress, then exited and returned to my scooter by road.
There’s also an excellent restaurant just outside Yongshi Fort (see the “Where to Eat in Kinmen” section at the end).
Mao Gong Shi and North Coast Forts
Mao Gong Shi Coastal Recreation Area (貓公石濱海休憩區) is a stretch of coastline featuring several soldier statues in trenches, with guns aimed at China.
Continuing along the north coast, there are several small but picturesque forts, including L36 Fortress (L-36據點) and L34 Fortress (L-34據點).
These provide some of the best views of Shi Islet (獅嶼, Shiyu, or Lion Islet), a tiny military outpost with ROC flags clearly visible, backed by the skyscrapers of Xiamen (see the second photo at the top of this article).
At the western end of the north coast, Hujingtou Battle Museum (湖井頭戰史館) covers Kinmen military history, but unfortunately was closed when I visited.
Shaxi Fort
Arguably the most famous fort on Little Kinmen, Shaxi Fort (沙溪堡) features underground tunnels with colorful paintings, a scenic stairway leading to a coastal pavilion, and excellent views of Xiamen.
Most of the fort is underground – it’s the pavilion that’s actually the most famous part.
However, due to its location at the far western end of Little Kinmen, Shaxi Fort is quite remote. This is the furthest you can get from Kinmen Bridge and the main island.
I actually had no cell phone reception around here and even got lost trying to find it. It might look like a single road leads there on GoogleMaps, but on the ground, there were more turns and smaller roads than I’d imagined.
What’s more, it’s a bit of a trek from the parking lot to the fort itself – I tried riding my scooter right up to it but I was turned back by a guard.
Therefore, while Shaxi Fort is one of the classic Kinmen forts, I’d only recommend making the trip if you aren’t already tired of visiting forts at this point.
Houjing Village
Houjing (后井) is the main village on Little Kinmen. While it lacks the traditional architecture of the old villages on the Kinmen Island, there are two interesting spots worth visiting here.
The Huanan Soda Factory (華南汽水廠) is a long-running local soda factory. The small shop has an old-timey feeling, with several antiques and military items on display.
The drink itself is aerated water – essentially pop, but a little less sweet. The flavors include kumquat (金桔), lemon (檸檬), Kaoliang (高粱), mulberry (桑椹), and sarsaparilla (沙士).
I had the sarsaparilla and it was delicious. You’re supposed to carefully turn it upside down once before drinking.
Also check out Bada Tower (八達樓子) in town. This is a watchtower in a traffic circle with seven soldier statues on top. You can actually climb up to the top.
Just out of town, and on the way to the next attraction, the August 23 Artillery Battle Victory Monument (八二三砲戰勝利紀念碑) is another picture-worthy monument serving as a traffic circle.
Jiugong Tunnels
At the southeastern corner of Little Kinmen, Jiugong Tunnels (九宮坑道) are very similar to Zhaishan Tunnel on Kinmen Island, so only go out of your way if you want to see another.
When I visited, there were some cool light displays in the tunnel, which gave it a different vibe than the latter.
If You Have More Time
The Nanshantou Beach Fallen Watchtowers are a pair of watchtowers that have fallen onto a beach, but they are quite hard to find.
First, drive to Nanshantou Four Camps near Shaxi Fort. From the parking lot, take the trail to the left all the way down the stairs to the beach, then follow the beach to the left for five minutes. A sign warns that the beach is for local fishermen only (I didn’t see any), so proceed at your own risk and watch the incoming tides.
Little Kinmen also has a Matsu Statue in Matsu Park (媽祖公園) and views looking down on Kinmen Bridge from Qilinshan Forest Park (麒麟山森林公園).
What to Eat in Kinmen
Among Taiwanese, Kinmen is known for its beef dishes, a soft peanut candy called gong tang (貢糖), taro shaved ice, and oyster omelets which are different than those you’ll find elsewhere in Taiwan.
Jincheng has by far the best variety of eating options on the island, especially around Jincheng Old Street. Even though I stayed outside of Jincheng, I drove into town for both my breakfasts and dinners.
For a traditional and very local breakfast, I recommend the Cantonese-style congee (廣東粥) at Yong Chun Xiao Chi Dian (永春廣東粥) at the far northern end of Jincheng Old Street. Make sure to order a fried dough stick (油條) to go with it.
For something quick to take away, fried wheat cakes (閩式燒餅) are a local specialty. The round, flaky pastries come in sweet and salty versions. The most popular shop is here.
Another good breakfast option is Biao Ji Xiao Shi Dian (標記小吃店) at the southern edge of town, with a full menu of local breakfast and lunch items, including delicious deep-dried green onion crepes (蛋餅), congee, various noodles, and more. Use GoogleTranslate if needed for the menu.
For dinner on Jincheng Old Street, there are a couple restaurants (here and here) which do a very cool local version of beef noodles, where the beef comes raw and they cook it by pouring the hot broth onto it in front of you.
I went to the first one and it was excellent.
I loved the locally made craft beers by K Beer (金門精釀), which included a gong tang flavored one and another flavored with Kinmen Kaoliang. These were available in several restaurants, including the beef noodles shop I went to. You can’t miss them, with their super colorful label designs.
You can also try K Beer at their dedicated shop here on Jincheng Old Street – either to enjoy on the spot or in gift boxes to go. They also sell a few cool souvenirs.
If you need a meal near the airport, I had some excellent ramen at this restaurant, though there’s nothing specifically Kinmen about it.
Order from the machine, and look for the option to add extra pork slices (I didn’t, but after I saw someone else’s, I wished I had).
Finally, I really enjoyed my lunch at Huang Cuo San Ceng Lou Taro Restaurant (三層樓芋頭餐館) just outside Yongshi Fort on Little Kinmen.
The resident cat got its own chair at the best table. I wasn’t allowed to sit at the cat’s table when I asked, but the boss later brought the cat to my table!
It was here that I got to try Kinmen’s version of oyster omelet – compared to those usually served in Taiwan, it comes loaded with green onions and has a different kind of sauce – closer to a Thai chili sauce.
I also loved their taro shaved ice, another popular Kinmen specialty.
I’ll leave you on that sweet note. If you still have questions about planning your Kinmen trip after reading this guide, feel free to drop them below.