It’s not difficult to understand why Alishan is Taiwan’s most famous mountain resort. Once you ride the iconic Alishan Forest Railway past tea plantations to its misty ancient forests and watch a sunrise over a sea of clouds, you’ll get it.
But visiting Alishan can be surprisingly complicated. With tricky route planning, difficult-to-book buses and trains, and sold-out hotels, Alishan is a logistical puzzle. Members of my Taiwan Travel Planning group regularly report it was the most overwhelming (but also rewarding) part of their Taiwan trip.
The Alishan region is my personal favorite area of Taiwan. I have been numerous times and published over a dozen articles covering every aspect of visiting it.
In this guide, I’ve brought everything together to help first-time visitors plan an Alishan trip with confidence.
Alishan Trip Planning Summary
Here are the most important things first-time visitors should know when planning an Alishan trip. I’ll explain each point in more detail throughout this guide.
- Top Highlights: sunrises above seas of clouds, ancient forests, hiking, cherry blossoms, and the historic Alishan Forest Railway
- Best Time to Visit: Year-round, but winter can be surprisingly cold, while cherry blossom season (February to April) is busiest and most difficult to book.
- Time Needed: Many travelers spend 1-2 nights in Alishan, but you can easily spend 3-4 nights if you add nearby villages like Xiding (Eryanping Trail), Shizhuo, or Fenqihu.
- Most Recommended Itinerary: Get the best taste of the region by spending 1 night in Alishan and 1 night in one of the small villages.
- Easiest Way to Visit: Take a bus or private transfer from Sun Moon Lake or Chiayi to Alishan or join a day tour from Taichung, Chiayi, or Kaohsiung.
- Should You Ride the Train? The Alishan Forest Railway line from Chiayi to Alishan is iconic, but tickets are limited, the ride is long, and it arrives late. It’s much easier to ride the three short lines inside the park.
- Where to Stay: Hotels inside the park are limited and overpriced, but still the best option for exploring the park and seeing the sunrise there. Guesthouses in the small villages outside the park are better value but require more commuting time.
What is Alishan?
The Alishan (阿里山 or Mount Ali) region was originally the hunting grounds of the Tsou (Zou or 鄒) people, who still live in villages in the region today.
Located in Chiayi County in central Taiwan, Alishan is a collection of misty mountain peaks and ancient forests sitting at around 2000-2500 meters above sea level.
The area is famous for its spectacular sunrises and sunsets, sea of clouds (雲海), hiking trails, cherry blossoms, and cool mountain climate – expect temperatures around 10 degrees lower than lowland areas.
The forests here are often shrouded in mist, creating dreamlike scenes reminiscent of classical Chinese paintings. Along with Sun Moon Lake and Taroko Gorge, Alishan has long been considered one of Taiwan’s most iconic scenic destinations.
The area is officially protected as Alishan National Forest Recreation Area, one of 19 such areas in Taiwan (and NOT one of Taiwan’s national parks).
The region is also known for Alishan High Mountain Oolong Tea, Taiwan’s single most famous tea. However, many visitors don’t realize that the tea plantations are not inside Alishan National Forest Recreation Area itself, but in smaller villages lower down the mountain, like Xiding and Shizhuo.
The classic way to reach and explore Alishan is by riding the Alishan Forest Railway. Originally built during the Japanese colonial era to haul hinoki (Taiwanese cypress) down the mountain, it now carries tourists.
On the way, the train stops at Fenqihu, a mountain village known for its railway bento boxes and bamboo forest hikes.
Alishan Maps
Alishan is one of the most geographically confusing destinations in Taiwan. Between the mountain villages, hiking trails, railway lines, and different transportation routes, it’s not immediately obvious how everything fits together.
The map I designed above shows the broader Alishan region, including the routes from Chiayi and Sun Moon Lake, the villages of Xiding (Eryanping Trail), Shizhuo, and Fenqihu, and the Alishan Forest Railway.
Another Alishan map I made, which comes from my Taiwan Travel Guide ebook, zooms in on Alishan National Forest Recreation Area itself, including the railway stations, sunrise platforms, hotels, and main hiking trails.
Best Time to Visit Alishan
Alishan is worth visiting year-round, but every season comes with benefits or things to know.
Cherry blossom season is the most popular and difficult time to visit Alishan, but arguably the most beautiful. Different types of cherry blossoms bloom from February to April, but the peak is the last two weeks of March when the gorgeous pinkish-white Yoshino cherry blossoms bloom.
During this time, buses, trains, and hotels sell out quickly and there are traffic restrictions on weekends. See my Alishan cherry blossom guide for more information.
In summer, Alishan is a cool respite from scorching lowland areas. Fall offers a nice balance of mild weather and low crowds. There’s a bit of autumn foliage in November to December, but don’t expect much.
Winter can be chilly but also busy as December is peak travel season in Taiwan.
Alishan region is famous for fog, which can come in any season and block sunrises but also make the forest look atmospheric and moody.
But this fog is famously unpredictable, often rolling in then disappearing again within minutes. Weather forecasts are often wrong, so don’t let them scare you off.
Make sure to dress warm for Alishan sunrise. In winter, prepare a winter jacket and hat. For spring and fall, a hoodie or lighter jacket with hood is usually enough but highly depends on what temperatures you are used to.
Rain can fall in any month of the year in Alishan, but summer months have higher chances. The trails are still doable in light rain – bring an umbrella or rain jacket (or just buy one from the shops there if needed).
See my weather guide for the average temperatures and rainfall by month in Alishan.
Pro Tip: When checking the weather forecast for Alishan, make sure to search “Alishan National Forest Recreation Area weather”. If you search “Alishan weather”, it will be incorrect, since that is based on Alishan township’s main town, which is much lower than the tourist park.
Route Planning
Before you create your Alishan itinerary, there are some key factors and choices you’ll need to make which will impact it.
Coming from Chiayi vs. Sun Moon Lake
Chiayi is the classic transit hub and access point for Alishan. It has the most buses to Alishan and is the departure point of the Alishan Forest Railway.
If you’re coming from any of the major cities in Taiwan, you’ll most likely transit through Chiayi on your way to Alishan.
However, if you’re visiting Sun Moon Lake right before Alishan, as I recommend doing in most of my Taiwan itineraries, it will make more sense to take one of the two daily direct buses from Sun Moon Lake to Alishan. The same thing applies in reverse (going from Alishan to Sun Moon Lake).
However, if you’re heading first to one of the small villages like Xiding, Shizhuo, or Fenqihu, it will actually be faster to return to Taichung HSR Station, take the HSR to Chiayi, and continue by bus or taxi to the small villages from there.
From Chiayi: Alishan Forest Railway vs. Bus
The two main public transportation options from Chiayi to Alishan are the Alishan Forest Railway and the public bus. Which one you choose will have an impact on how you plan your overall itinerary.
The Alishan Forest Railway is the more iconic experience, complete with awesome views and a one-hour stop in Fenqihu (on the way up only).
But the train is not necessarily the best way for most travelers. First, there’s only one train per day to Alishan (with a second earlier one that only goes to Fenqihu). Second, it takes a full five hours and doesn’t reach Alishan until 3 PM. Finally, it has limited spaces and can be very difficult to get seats.
Overall, travelers who love scenic train journeys should choose the railway but understand that it may place some limitations on their itinerary.
Taking the bus to Alishan may be less memorable, but it gets you there much faster (2-3 hours instead of 5) and has over a dozen departure times per day, including five from Chiayi HSR Station. It’s also cheaper and easier to book.
If your main goal is to have a more flexible itinerary and time to explore Alishan, just take the bus there (or, for even more convenience, a private transfer).
You can still experience the Alishan Forest Railway by riding the three small lines inside the park, though they don’t come with mountain views.
Staying in Alishan Park vs. the Small Villages
Where you decide to stay will also affect your itinerary and how long you need for the region.
Staying in one of the hotels in the Alishan tourist village inside the park is the most convenient way to explore Alishan National Forest Recreation Area. It’s also the only feasible way to see the famous sunrise at Alishan.
However, most of these tourist hotels are old and overpriced, yet they frequently sell out due to limited rooms and high demand.
Therefore, some travelers decide to stay in one of the small villages between Chiayi and Alishan instead, like Xiding, Shizhuo, or Fenqihu. On the plus side, these accommodations tend to be more inviting (many are run by the tea farming families) and reasonably priced. Some even feature impressive tea plantation or mountain views.
However, these aren’t ideal bases for exploring Alishan. You’ll have to take a one-hour (give or take) bus ride to and from the park and you won’t be able to get there for sunrise.
My most recommended approach is to treat Alishan and the villages as different destinations with completely different vibes. Spend a dedicated night in Xiding or Shizhuo for exploring the tea plantations there (including local sunrise and sunset options) and one night at Alishan for exploring the ancient forest and sunrise there.
And for Fenqihu, treat it as a stop on the way to/from Alishan, since it has lockers to store your luggage while you visit, or dedicate a night to it if you are especially interested in the bamboo forest hikes there.
Suggested Alishan Itineraries
Once you understand the factors above, it will be easier to determine how much time you need for Alishan and how to map out your itinerary.
Below are the most common ways travelers structure an Alishan trip. For full step-by-step itineraries and transportation details, see my dedicated Alishan itinerary guide.
Alishan Day Trip
A day trip to Alishan is possible but rushed. Take an early bus and focus on the main trails in Alishan National Forest Recreation Area. You won’t have time for nearby villages like Fenqihu or Shizhuo unless you start very early and plan it well.
This option works best from Chiayi (take a very early HSR if coming from Taipei), but there are also organized day tours like this from Taichung, Chiayi, and Kaohsiung.
Two Days (One Night)
One night in Alishan is enough for the classic park experience: exploring the main trails, watching sunset and sunrise, and riding the short railway lines inside the park.
I recommend taking the bus up early in the morning (from either Chiayi or Sun Moon Lake), since the full railway journey arrives too late for a productive first day.
On the way back down the next day, take the train if you want to experience it. Take the bus if you want to get down faster or make a stop in Fenqihu.
Three Days (Two Nights)
Two nights is the sweet spot for many travelers and my most recommended timeframe. Many people initially think one night is enough, but add a second night once they realize how much there is to see in the region.
You could spend both nights inside Alishan National Forest Recreation Area for a slower-paced visit, especially if you want to ride the full train up on Day 1.
Another excellent option, and the way I most recommend, is to spend your first night in one of the tea villages, Shizhuo or Xiding and the second night in Alishan.
Then, take the train down for the Alishan Forest Railway experience, or take the bus down for more flexibility or a stop in Fenqihu.
Three or More Nights
With three or more nights, you can explore the Alishan region much more deeply. This gives you time for longer hikes, multiple tea villages, Fenqihu, or riding the Alishan Forest Railway without feeling rushed.
Getting To Alishan
Here are the main ways travelers get to Alishan, roughly in order of popularity.
From Chiayi by Bus
There are 10 buses per day from Chiayi Station (TWD 244) in the Chiayi city center and 5 buses per day from Chiayi HSR Station (TWD 283) to Alishan.
The ride takes 2 to 3 hours – see the full bus schedule, including things to know about riding these buses.
You can swipe EasyCard, but at busy times (long weekends, cherry blossom season, peak tourist season), I recommend that you buy your tickets online (new English website) for priority boarding. There are no longer seat reservations.
Buses arrive at Alishan Bus Station, which is here just outside the Alishan Park Entrance Gate. Note that there’s no longer a 7-Eleven inside it (as in my photo above) but there’s another one in the tourist village.
Arriving by bus gets you 50% off the Alishan park entrance fee (TWD 150 instead of 300) – show your bus ticket when entering the park or choose the option to add it when booking online.
All of these buses pass Xiding and Shizhuo villages on the way, but only a few make the small detour to Fenqihu.
You can no longer buy Alishan bus tickets at FamilyMarts in Taiwan or in person at the bus station.
From Chiayi by Alishan Forest Railway
The Alishan Forest Railway ride from Chiayi Station in the Chiayi city center to Alishan takes around 5 hours going up (depart 10 AM, arrive 3 PM), including a one-hour lunch stop at Fenqihu. The fare is TWD 750, which includes your discounted TWD 150 park entrance fee.
You’ll arrive at Alishan Train Station here inside the park, at the top of the tourist village where most hotels are.
Coming down, the ride takes around 4 hours (TWD 600, depart 11:50 AM, arrive 3:45 PM), with no lunch break at Fenqihu.
There’s also an earlier train from Chiayi Station to Fenqihu only (depart 9 AM, arrive 11:30 AM) and a later one going back (depart Fenqihu 2:35 PM, arrive Chiayi 4:55).
Getting Alishan Forest Railway tickets can be especially difficult. Find out how to score tickets in my Alishan Forest Railway guide.
There’s also the fancier wooden Formosensis Train, which is typically only done in sections (Chiayi to Fenqihu, Fenqihu to Alishan, or the same in reverse) and can be booked on Klook or KKday.
From Sun Moon Lake by Bus
There are two direct buses per day from Sun Moon Lake to Alishan (TWD 292). The bus departs from Sun Moon Lake Bus Station (here) at 8:00 and 9:30 AM on weekdays and 8:00 and 8:30 on weekends and takes about 3 hours to reach Alishan Bus Station.
Going from Alishan to Sun Moon Lake, the bus departs at 1:00 and 2:30 PM on weekdays and 1:00 and 2:00 on weekends.
While you can swipe EasyCard, for this bus I strongly recommend buying your tickets in advance, no matter when you go.
By Private Transfer or Tour
Because of the complicated bus schedules, bookings, and seat availability, many travelers opt to take private transfers to and from Alishan.
I recommend Tripool, which provides instant quotes on their website or app. Sign up for the app with this link, or use my discount code Nick2026, and you’ll receive three discount vouchers by email.
I also have a list of private drivers in Taiwan that I have personally vetted – simply contact any of them for a quote.
You can simplify your Alishan trip by taking a tour. Here’s a popular day tour from Taichung, Kaohsiung, or Chiayi (Klook), one from Kaohsiung with stop in Fenqihu (Klook), one from Taichung with stop in Fenqihu (Klook), and a sunrise tour from Taichung (KKday).
By Car or Scooter
Driving is a feasible way to reach Alishan and a good alternative to the complicated public transportation options. The road is winding but safe – I personally love doing this drive.
Rent your car from Chiayi HSR Station (or from Taichung HSR Station to visit Sun Moon Lake first). The drive takes around 1.5 hours from Chiayi or 2.5 hours from Sun Moon Lake. See my guide to renting a car in Taiwan and book it here.
Note that the highly scenic highway from Sun Moon Lake to Alishan is closed from 5:30 PM to 7:00 AM (around Yushan National Park).
Arriving at Alishan, you’ll need to pay TWD 300 entry fee per adult + 100 parking fee at the entrance gate. You’ll then need to park at your hotel or the large parking lot in the middle of the tourist village – you can’t drive anywhere else inside the park.
Renting a scooter is more difficult – see my Taiwan scooter guide to find out why. But if you can get one, it’s my absolute favorite way to visit and explore Alishan region.
Rent from here at Chiayi Station or here at Chiayi HSR Station. You’ll need to pay TWD 300 park entrance fee plus 50 parking fee on arrival at Alishan. Dress warm for the ride and ask for a rain poncho when renting.
If you’re driving, also consider the slower, less touristy, and more scenic back route to Alishan, through Meishan!
Where to Stay in Alishan
You have three main accommodation options for Alishan: a cluster of hotels in the tourist village, two nicer hotels deeper in the park, or staying in one of the small villages outside the park.
Alishan hotels are tricky to book – many of them don’t release their rooms until 2-3 months in advance, but once they do, they sell out quickly, especially for long weekends, December, and cherry blossom season.
Pro Tip: Some small hotels in Taiwan, including Alishan region, may request a deposit transfer after booking – this is how locals usually book hotels in Taiwan, but it’s not feasible if you don’t have a local bank account. Simply respond that you are a foreign tourist so you can’t do this, and they will most likely tell you that you can pay the full amount on arrival.
Alishan Tourist Village Hotels
Most of Alishan’s hotels are concentrated on one street at the bottom of the Alishan tourist village, with access to Alishan Bus Station, Alishan Train Station, several restaurants, shops, and the 24-hour 7-Eleven.
These hotels are mostly basic, older, and overpriced for what you get. They are functional – you’re paying for the location and convenience, and you probably won’t spend much time in them anyway.
My personal pick is Dafong Hotel (see on Booking / Agoda / Trip.com). Rooms are small but newly renovated and they usually release their rooms earlier than the others (4-6 months in advance, book early for a lower price).
Other passable options include Chinshan Villa (see on Booking / Agoda / Trip.com) and Yin Shan Hotel (see on Booking / Agoda / Trip.com).
Hotels Deeper in the Park
There are two nicer hotels deeper inside Alishan park. They are closer to the hiking trails but further from the tourist village amenities.
On arrival at the park, you’ll usually need to take a shuttle bus to reach them, unless you don’t mind walking to them (20-30 minutes).
Alishan Hotel (see on Booking / Agoda / Trip.com) is by far the largest, nicest, and most expensive hotel in Alishan. It has a historic old wing and large modern building. There’s a restaurant on site and you can watch sunset from the roof.
Alishan Gou Hotel (see on Klook / Agoda / Trip.com) is an older hotel, but still a step up from hotels in the tourist village. It is next to Chaoping Station and the entrance to Sister Pond Trail.
Staying in Small Villages Outside the Park
As I said earlier in the article, some travelers choose to stay in small villages outside the park. These are not super convenient bases for exploring Alishan – treat them as their own destinations – but some people still do it.
Shizhuo is a 45-minute bus ride from Alishan. Most tea plantation guesthouses are 15-30 minutes’ uphill walk from the bus stop – so factor that into your planning and request a pickup from the Shizhuo bus stop if needed.
These are typically friendly local guesthouses run by tea farming families. See my recommended hotels in Shizhuo here.
Fenqihu is a one-hour bus ride from Alishan. It’s the least convenient base for Alishan as there are only a few buses per day between them. There’s only really one good hotel option in Fenqihu, but we really like it.
Xiding (for Eryanping Trail) is the furthest from Alishan (1 hour 15 min bus ride). However, it has sunset and sunrise viewpoints that are arguably better than Alishan’s and a couple truly excellent hotels.
Things to Do in Alishan
A visit to Alishan naturally revolves around riding the small train, hiking in the ancient forest, and sunrise.
Riding Alishan Forest Railway Inside the Park
From Alishan Station at the top of the tourist village, three short train lines run to different scenic areas of the park.
While these train rides feature forest scenery and not mountain views, they are still a good alternative for those who didn’t ride the longer line from Chiayi to Alishan. They are also just a convenient way to reach different areas of the park.
The first two, Chaoping (沼平 or Zhaoping) and Shenmu (神木 or Sacred Tree) Lines, run roughly every 30-60 minutes from 9 AM to 4 PM (see the times here). Each ride takes 6-7 minutes, costs TWD 100, and you can pay with cash or credit card at the ticket window.
Chaoping Station provides access to Sister Pond Trail, Tashan Trail, Mianyue Line Trail, Gou Hotel, Alishan Police Lodge (cherry blossoms spot), and Alishan Skywalk. Most visitors head here first.
Every Wednesday, classic wooden hinoki (Taiwanese cypress) train cars run along this line.
The slightly quieter Shenmu Station provides access to Giant Tree Trail, Shouzhen Temple, and Cimu Temple (sunset viewpoint).
Chushan (祝山 or Zhushan) is the Sunrise Line. After departing from Alishan station, it makes a stop at Chaoping, then terminates at Chushan Sunrise Observation Deck, which is up on a ridge overlooking a deep valley, across which is Yushan, Taiwan’s tallest mountain.
The ride takes 25 minutes, costs TWD 150, and departs anywhere from 4 AM at the peak of summer to 6 AM at the peak of winter. They usually run one or two trains each morning (going there and back after sunrise), based on demand.
They generally depart about one hour before sunrise time. But you can’t just Google the time for sunrise, as it needs to rise above the mountains. To find the exact train departure and sunrise time during your visit, check the Alipedia app or the sign at Alishan Station the afternoon before.
Seating on all the trains is first-come-first-served. The sunrise train tends to get packed, so it’s better to buy your tickets online or from any of the stations the afternoon before (1-4:30 PM), but you can also buy them just before boarding.
Note that you don’t HAVE to ride the trains. You can also walk from Alishan tourist village to Chaoping area (20 minutes), Shenmu area (20-30 minutes), or Chushan sunrise area (one hour, half of which is a steep uphill trail through the forest).
The are also electric minibuses running from Alishan tourist village to Shouzhen Temple, Choping, and Chushan throughout the day.
The Main Hiking Trails
Sister Pond Trail (here) is the classic introductory trail to Alishan’s ancient forest. It passes giant trees and two ponds before descending a long staircase to Shouzhen Temple, which has two rows of snack and souvenir vendors.
From the point where the two rows of vendors meet at a corner, a small trail provides access to the eastern side of the Giant Tree Trail (here), a loop trail featuring some of the park’s largest and oldest trees.
Shenmu Station is at the north side of the loop, while Ciyun Temple is on the quieter west side of it.
A viewing platform here near Ciyun Temple is the best place to watch sunset in Alishan, including an often overlooked opportunity to witness sea of clouds.
Just note that if you stay till sunset, you’ll miss the last train from Shenmu back to Alishan Station (it’s an easy, 20-minute walk).
My recommended 3-hour hike for first-time visitors is to ride the train from Alishan Station to Chaoping Station, walk Sister Pond Trail to Shouzhen Temple, walk the Giant Tree Trail loop (go clockwise to cover most of the loop or counter-clockwise to do only a small part of it), then ride the train from Shenmu Station back to Alishan.
Alishan Sunrise
One of the main reasons most tourists come to Alishan is to see the sunrise.
Everyone’s hope is to witness the sea of clouds phenomenon – when the valley below fills with clouds as the sun rises above Yushan on the opposite side. However, conditions need to be perfect, so you have to be lucky to actually see this.
In my experience, more often than not, it’s either so foggy you can’t see anything or it’s clear, but there’s no sea of clouds. Therefore, it’s important to manage expectations. But when it does happen, it’s very beautiful.
90% of tourists take the Chushan Sunrise Line and watch the sunrise from Chushan Sunrise Observation Deck. It’s a swarming, noisy mass of people and food stalls and, to be totally honest, not even the best view, as it is partially obstructed by trees.
If that sounds awful to you, there are alternatives. From Zhushan, you can hike 10 minutes uphill to the better and quieter Xiaoliyuanshan Lookout (here) – and have tea at Mountain Ali Tea No.35 after!
Or you can walk 10 minutes downhill to Duigaoyue Sunrise Viewing Platform (here), my personal favorite, and usually with few to no people.
If you want to avoid the packed sunrise train, you can also hike up (50/60/70 minutes to Duigaoyue/Chushan/Xiaoliyuanshan from most hotels).
The trailhead is here near Chaoping Station, after which it’s a steep climb up through the forest – consider scoping out the trailhead the day before so you know where you’ll be going.
Pro Tip: Take the train up, but hike back down (which is much easier and it will be light out). From the sunrise viewpoints, you can follow Zhushan Sunrise Trail downhill for 30 minutes to reach Chaoping Trail for further explorations before check-out time.
Some hotels in the park also arrange sunrise tours which involve driving out of the park to viewpoints around Yushan National Park.
Exploring Alishan Tourist Village
Alishan Tourist Village is where you’ll find most hotels, Alishan Bus and Train Stations, Alishan Visitor’s Center, a cool-looking post office, and several souvenir shops, restaurants, and tea shops.
The hotels are mostly along a road at the bottom, the train station is at the top, and the bus station is just down the road and outside the park entrance gate.
If you need it, there are luggage storage lockers inside Alishan Bus Station and Alishan Train Station.
Flower Viewing
Alishan is regarded as Taiwan’s most iconic cherry blossom viewing location. Just as the Japanese first logged the area and turned it into a tourist attraction, they also planted cherry blossoms there to remind visitors of home.
Plum blossoms (which look similar to cherry blossoms) bloom from December to January in Alishan. Then, darker pink Taiwanese cherry blossoms bloom from February to March.
But the true climax of the season comes from mid- to late-March, when the gorgeous white Yoshino cherry blossoms turn the whole park into a stunning Chinese landscape painting.
Other types of cherry blossoms bloom into the first half of April, marking the end of the season.
If you’re visiting during this time, especially March to April, expect sold out buses, trains, hotels, and traffic restrictions on weekends.
I introduce the best viewing spots in the park and other things to know in my Alishan cherry blossoms guide.
Stargazing at Night
There really isn’t much to do in Alishan after the sun goes down and you have dinner. You’ll probably be going to bed very early to prepare for sunrise, anyways.
But one evening activity suggestion is stargazing. Alishan Visitor’s Center (here) in the tourist village arranges simple stargazing tours (TWD 300) – just inquire during opening hours.
They usually take guests to Xiaoliyuanshan (the highest of the three sunrise viewpoints). If you’re feeling energetic, you could just hike up there yourself, as I described in the sunrise section.
An even better place for stargazing in Taiwan is Hehuanshan.
Longer and Lesser-Known Hikes
If you’re looking to add one more easier (but tourist-free) hike, make it Shuishan Giant Tree Trail, which starts here near Chaoping Station and takes 60-90 minutes return. It follows an old railway line to a giant tree.
For more serious hikers, consider Tashan Trail, which starts here on Sister Pond Trail and ascends to an impressive lookout of Tashan, the highest peak in Alishan – budget four hours return.
2026 Update: Tashan Trail will be closed for one year starting July 1, 2026 due to trail repairs.
But the absolute hidden gem of Alishan hiking trails is Mianyue Line. Starting on Tashan Trail, the line later veers down an abandoned Alishan Forest Railway Line that was destroyed by an earthquake.
This thrilling hike includes no less than 14 dark train tunnels and 24 iron bridge crossings, as well as a landslide section with ropes in place. You can see the best of it in 3-4 hours return with no permit, but to hike the whole thing you’ll need about 7 hours and a permit, as it passes through a rare orchid reserve.
See my Mianyue Line guide for more info.
2026 Update: Mianyue Line will be inaccessible from Alishan for one year starting July 1, 2026 due to trail repairs.
Last but not least, Zhushan Sunrise Trail is a functional trail if you want to hike up to the sunrise viewpoints instead of taking the train there and back.
Fenqihu and the Tea Villages
I highly recommend spending some time in one or two of the small villages on the way to or from Alishan.
Locals consider these to be part of Alishan region, despite being outside of Alishan National Forest Recreation Area – that’s why you’ll see “Alishan” in some of the trail and hotel names.
The three villages, in order when driving up from Chiayi, are Xiding, Shizhuo, and Fenqihu.
Xiding (隙頂) is the first of two tea plantation villages. Barely a village, Xiding is mainly known for Eryanping Trail (二延平步道) and the connecting Tea & Mist Trail (茶霧之道).
The steep trails pass tea plantations and meet at one of the most epic viewpoints in the Alishan region, with views of both sunrise and sunset.
Unlike in Alishan, it’s even possible to drive up to the viewpoint. There are a couple excellent guesthouses here, and every bus from Chiayi to Alishan passes Xiding.
See my Eryanping Trail guide for all the info.
Shizhuo (石棹) is the second, larger, and most well-known tea village. The mountainside above the highway is covered with tea plantations, interconnecting trails, and guesthouses run by tea farmers. Shizhuo is a growing favorite among travelers and I’ve been raving about since I first went there nearly a decade ago.
Every bus from Chiayi to Alishan also passes here, but you may need to walk 15-30 minutes uphill from the bus stop to reach your accommodation (or request pick-up).
See my Shizhuo guide for all the info.
Last but not least, Fenqihu (奮起湖) is intimately connected with Alishan’s history and railway. Fenqihu is the largest stop on the Alishan Forest Railway line from Chiayi to Alishan.
The train stops here for one hour on the way up, but not on the way down. A second train per day goes from Chiayi to Fenqihu only and back.
A former train garage and maintenance site, train workers and now tourists stop here for railway bento box lunches.
Fenqihu’s old-timey food street has tasty treats and local products, while around the tiny village there are some truly incredible bamboo forest hikes. In spring, it’s one of the best places to see fireflies in Taiwan.
This makes it a tempting overnight stay, especially with kids, as there is less steep hiking required than, say, Shizhuo or Xiding.
Just heads up that only a few buses per day from Chiayi to Alishan make the small detour to Fenqihu. There are luggage storage lockers in Fenqihu train station, which makes it a convenient place to stop for a few hours then move on – just watch those bus schedules carefully.
See my Fenqihu guide for all the info.
Where to Eat in Alishan
If you pass Fenqihu on the way to Alishan, it’s practically a must to eat a railway bento box, with vegetarian options available (see left side of above photo). These are my personal favorite of the famous railway bento boxes associated with certain train stations across Taiwan.
Meanwhile, Shizhuo is one of the best places to taste and buy Alishan High Mountain Tea directly from the tea farmers, but you can also buy it in Fenqihu and Alishan park.
In Alishan, the food scene isn’t going to blow you away. A handful of similar restaurants in the tourist village offer generic Taiwanese/Chinese dishes meant for sharing (i.e. better for groups). For something local, try the tofu with Alishan wasabi (you can also buy small jars of this delicious wasabi in the souvenir shops).
For solo travelers or cheaper Taiwanese street food-style eats, step into the Naromafei Food Court (here) across the parking lot.
Most hotels give a voucher for sub-par breakfast in one of the restaurants – don’t feel bad about skipping it if you’re out watching sunrise and hiking.
For me, most breakfasts and lunches in Alishan consist of snacks purchased from 7-Eleven or vendors at Chaoping Station, Shouzhen Temple, or Chushan sunrise viewpoint.
The 7-Eleven (here) in Alishan tourist village is the highest one in all of Taiwan (2200 meters) – watch for the large, friendly dog who is often sitting at the entrance protecting it.
I hope this guide helped to make your Alishan trip planning easier. If you’ve still got questions or want to confirm your itinerary, leave a comment below, or for a faster reply, post it in my Facebook group.